Saturday, 31 May 2014

A Day in Limerick out and about and an Irish night at Bunratty Castle on Saturday 31st May


A couple of grannies from Oz,
Found themselves in a bookstore because
They wanted to buy some limericks from Limerick
Yes said the lady, here is the book,
And lucky grandad decided to take a look
Because the stories it held were rather A rated
And not what we thought would be appreciated!

Sorry kids, there is no suitable books for children but hope you like grannie's version instead!


We have managed to pack quite a lot into our day so far, in Limerick.  A hop on hop off tour allowed us a good overview of Limerick, which has changed since we were here when Joshua was 9 months old, 14.5 years ago.  The city was settled by the Vikings, and later King John built a castle on the lands that overlooked the Viking establishment on Kings Island.

King John's Castle built in 1216 overlooks the Shannon River


Potato markets



City Walls mostly pulled down in the 17th century




This bit of street art has been done by some world acclaimed artists, let me know if you recognise this work of art!

Not half as good as in Londonderry!  And that one holds a powerful message



The Rock signifies the end of the conflict in the 1600's


Actually the tour took us a bit "behind" the normal frontages and shop fronts, into some pretty squalid areas, and bear in mind Angela's Ashes, if you have seen the movie or read the book, it was set in the back streets.

This square fronted the park, which used to be only available to the owners of the swish apartments, who had a key to the gate and were able to use the park as their own.


Georgian Quarter, quite a different display of building than in other areas

A different colour door for every house! Well almost.

This was the Church that our Sir Richard Creagh used for Jesuit priests in 1500's and ultimately earnt him a place in the Tower of London, to be poisoned by Queen Mary I, he was a Bishop of Limerick and she didn't like his Catholic ways


This used to be the condensed milk factory and poor conditions caused a difference with the people, and as such for 2 weeks Limerick was a separate state!

Now like all major towns they are refurbishing the waterfront.  Rugby is big here, and there are many Rugby pubs!



A bit of history and the dress of the Mayors, many Creagh men were Mayors



  Two of the Mayors were executed in 1921, this is where they lived and these are the bullet holes, we think they must have been sympathetic to the British forces in that Rebellion.
We found a brochure about a Flying Boat Museum at Foynes, a coastal town on the Shannon just west of Limerick city.  We certainly were surprised at the displays and also the information about the flying boats and travel during the 1930's.  In fact many film stars and presidents travelled in them.  Foynes was the landing spot after coming from US or Newfoundland.





You could catch a Flying Boat to Australia!


We thought about changing our flights when we got onboard!  Much more leg room than Business class!



Plenty of leg room


Sleeping compartment

We didn't think we could handle the height of the toilet bowl!
But this place was also where Irish Coffee was first made!  Apparently the crew were very cold and wet on a delayed flight and asked for a special coffee to warm them up the barman decided he would give them something to remember.  The story was done by hologram!


View of the Shannon from the south side


On the way back we checked out a little town with a museum about the Titanic as 4 of it's townspeople were on the voyage.  Only 2 survived.

The ruined castle was owned by the Fitzgerald family, they sort of let this one go as well!









We then decided to visit Adare, the most beautiful town in Ireland.  And it is, and we did, and will have to have those memories imprinted in our heads, because, being a Bank Holiday weekend, and lovely sunny day, half of Ireland also thought they would visit.  In fact the traffic was backed up for more than a mile just waiting to drive through the town. Lots of different building styles, pubs, and thatched roofed buildings, in fact probably a bit like the towns of the Cotswolds.   There was the Adare Golf Course, the Adare this and the Adare that, and of course all owned at one time by the master of Adare Manor, so large is the estate we couldn't even see the house.

An Irish feast awaits us soon, we are tipping something and cabbage on the menu!

Friday, 30 May 2014

From Dublin to Limerick - The long way and a day of discoveries



As Dublin has a great ring road all around the city, with roads radiating to major cities, and has a tunnel through the centre which cost 10 euro up to 10.00am but only 3 euro afterwards, Heidi tried to take us into the Dublin where we knew the traffic to be very heavy due to roadworks.  They have a water shortage here, no not an Irish story, but for real.  The underground pipes leak millions of gallons of water, so they are being replaced and while they do that they are extending the light rail system.

I managed to get us onto the ring road, and we headed towards Limerick.  But given that it is about 2.5 hours drive, we had to have some diversions.  Firstly we went to find Mary's family in Boston.  Blink and you will miss it, as Boston is really home to the Boston Manor.  The owner of this land owned all the land as far as we could see.  Ask a local when in doubt, and you get the answers!  More about our Irish ancestors later, as we certainly had some lessons in history today!


We are parked in the entrance to one of the properties next door to Boston Manor


Very peaceful farmland, lot of sheep and high tenstile power lines


After getting back on the highway we headed towards the general area of Limerick, but our aim was to be in Boris on Ossory, where my grandfather's parents were married.  But instead we tried to find the Rock of Dunamase.  We thought then it was an old Irish burial ground.  But the turnoff we took didn't pass the rock, and eventually we ended  up in a small town Stradbally.  The information board showed us the direction of Boris on Ossory, as Heidi couldn't find it.

Coffee in the village, and I happened to ask if there were any families named Simpson in the general area.  Yes she says go back up the street to the Gala shop run by the Simpsons.  So I did, and couldn't believe it when Ann Simpson told me her husband was David Simpson and the family name was from Scotland.

She even took us to her home and showed us a portrait of George Simpson and his family, another bit of my puzzle that I will have to research when I get home.  Ann's husband died 14 years ago, and they bought the shop before he died so that she could have a business which allowed her to be home with the children.  She certainly has a successful shop given the number of people who visited while we were there.

Young George Simpson who went to Canada, Mary (Molly) her dad George William Simpson wife Christina Patterson, then John and Charles.  Charles lived in Kilkenny and had two boys Alex and George, George was David Simpson's father.  The family came from Scotland, and that answered a lot of questions for me!  After all Simpson, King and Buchanan are hardly Irish names!

We then drove to Boris on Ossory. First though, we managed to find the Rock of Dumase.  Not quite a rock but a whole abandoned castle on top of a rock!




 Boris on Ossory is another almost blink and you will miss it but it had a Church of Ireland, which I presume was were my grandparents were married, cause they weren't Catholic!



Lunch in Sal's Diner, 10 euros well spent, and we set out for Limerick, but this time we took a detour to the Donaghmore Workhouse Museum.  Never heard of it, had no idea what it was all about, but after an hour there, we learnt so much about the times that our grandparents left for Australia.

I now have a very different perspective on those difficult times.  Basically the Catholic were not allowed to own any land, and the lands were owned by the wealthy, who lived in England, and had middlemen looking after their affairs.  They charged the farmers rent and allowed them around 1000 sm of land (1/4 acre) on which they had to grow their crops in order to live and to pay rent.  Their housing was similar to the crofters cottages in Scotland, and if they failed to pay the absorbently high rents, they were evicted and the landowner removed the shack.

Then came the Potato Famine.  For those with Irish ancestors, I would encourage you to look up what is written in Wikipedia about the Potato Famine, and the Poor Law that was in place.  The major cause of death in the times of the famine was typhus, from the lice along with all the other diseases that are caused by very poor living standards and no sanitary services.

Our tour guide was very informative, and we came away fascinated.  How did they get to Australia, and Canada and the US?  There were, at any one time over 250,000 people in the Workhouses.  2,500 died every week, and there were more than 100 workhouses across the country, one in each local area.

The landowners had to contribute to the Poor Tax, and funds from this paid in some cases, for the passage abroad.  For others, they had relatives living abroad who sponsored them and,  who used to send money back to their Irish relatives, and for some, the Australian government paid the way of unmarried girls so they could be employed as housemaids.  If we thought the convicts had it tough, these poor people had it just as bad.  The men and women were separated, as were the boys and girls, in fact children as young as 2 lived in the quarters with those up to 15.  Just horrible.  They were made to work, they had wooden slabs and a bag to sleep on, there was no heating, and when they arrived all their clothing was removed.

So now I know that perhaps my relatives, not being Catholic, might have had it a bit easier, they came because they were sponsored, and that is on their shipping records.

But for Mary's family, thank their lucky stars that they got to come to Australia, because they could have very well have ended up in this situation.




The bedding for the boys


Men's quarters



After WWI the workhouse was used as a billet for the Black and Tans, those British and Scottish forces who were supposed to be keeping the peace, this graffiti is written by a Scottish soldier, who had been in WWI, and they put up a Roll of Honour for those who died.  But this strong room probably saw many other bad events.  It was also where the records were kept.  Hidden under lock and key, because the manager never wanted the public to know what had happened in the Workhouses.  Some records may have survived, but some days the roads leading into the place were piled with bodies, as so many people just perished.

This is hard to even decipher, but the whole of Ireland was originally divvied up between the upper class, and the towns built up around the estates.  Some Lords had 60000 acres of land.


After the soldiers left in 1923 it became a co-op for the butter industry, as the landowners, after the potato blight, concentrated on larger farms where they could raise cattle.

There is quite a collection of old equipment which John's grandparents would have used on their dairy farm.



Butter churner





They wouldn't have used this though, as measure to pour the Guinness




Another chance discovery and we really left with a much clearer understanding of what life was like for those caught in the terrible Famine.  1 million emigrated, and thank goodness they did!


Our B&B is the cheapest yet, and for the 65 euros, is quite good.  No stairs is a bonus, the rooms spacious and this place could hold it's own with some higher priced B&B's we have been in.

Dinner at a small pub in the next village, next to a River.  Note that they can only catch 10 salmon in the season!
Don't know how that is policed.   





All in all we had an interesting day. bit luckier than the poor guy whose car was burning on the N7 this morning!