Friday, 6 June 2014

Going the Irish Miles, from Armagh to Belfast via Londonderry Friday 6th June D.Day Anniversary


When we were on the English Channel we thought about all those brave men who took part in the D.Day landings, 70 years is a long time to reflect on those terrible times. But today we visited Londonderry scene of another battle for independence.

The bridge over the river on the way in is a double traffic bridge, one of very few in Europe
  Last time we were here almost 15 years ago, we didn't see very much of the town at all.  Back then there was still some uncertainty,  but today the situation is totally different.  We did the hop on hop off tour, and the route took us around this lovely old walled city, past the area of the conflict and the whole commentary was so interesting and presented in a lovely way.

For me, it was also a home-coming of sorts.  My grandfather's ancestors came from here in the famine years, and while I knew Buchanan was a Scottish name I had no proof that his family came from the Scottish lowlands to Ireland.  But on the wall of the tourist bureau was a list of all the names of the Scottish families who came between 1604 and 1645.  As well I found names of great grandmothers as well.  And I have a copy of the poster and the stories it tells.   Does that mean I will be able to research until my heart's contents?  No, just makes it all extremely difficult as all I have managed to do is to loosen a brick in the very strong brick wall!  But I was very happy.

During the tour I had my eldest son in mind, as last time he was fascinated by the troubles, and the graffiti (nurals) which was on all the buildings.  So if there are a few more photos than normal, hopefully he at least, will appreciate them as we didn't get any last visit here in Londonderry.  We did come away with much more knowledge than when we started out.

The Peace Memorial Hands touching Hands reaching out
Firstly we went into Diamond Square, where in the past the markets where held, and the square is behind one set of entry gates, making the residents feel quite safe knowing they would be protected from any attack.






Driving up to the Diamond Square town centre

Then we travelled down the centre street, which saw a lot of fighting.  Shops were burnt, the buildings wrecked, and the residents fearful.  What a difference today.  It is a bustling shopping strip.
In the centre of the square is the War Memorial, and the oldest department store, even older than Maceys.

War Memorial

Austins the oldest department square
Then we travelled past the Guildhall, which was also the Council Chambers.  During the troubles it was bombed twice.  It is a magnificent building with 65 different stained windows.

It was impossible to get a photo it is so large, has a replica of Big Ben which stops chiming at midnight

Next we drove into the area known as the Bogside.  It consists of rows and rows of tenements and was the home of the Catholic residents.  It was these residents who took on the military who were based on top of the hill overlooking the area.  More about that later.

The city is divided by a river.  On the "westside" was the Catholics on the "eastside" the Protestants.  These names were given by the press based on the Gaza strip.  I remember watching the uprising on TV, and now we were there on the ground.  The murals speak for themselves.








It was down this street that 20,000 people, men, woman and children began their march which ended on Bloody Sunday


We travelled to the east side where the Pro British lived, but there are only a couple of murals still there.


Housing on the east side
The Guildhall

We continued the tour towards the Peace Bridge, built in 2010 and used by the residents signifying the linking of the two sides of the town, East and West.


We had lunch in the shopping centre and the food court provided great views of the East side.  I love that my camera produces panoramic shots!

We then drove ourselves to the British Tower.  On top of a hill overlooking the Bogside.  But before it was home to the soldiers it was part of the protection of the city, complete with cannons and with informative panel boards.  The wall played a part in many of the wars and rebellions of the day.










The views over the Blogside of town are amazing.  The cemetery on the hill was started in 1856, and it is huge.  It also gives you a perspective of how the British soldiers were able to view what the residents were doing.  







A man and his cannons!  Wrong century though

The wall continued to the east behind the cathedral.  During the conflict the soldiers erected small doors at the base.  The whole place was covered with barbed wire.  




We then went down to the site of the fighting.  It felt very strange to be standing on the grounds, as I had said before.  There are memorials all over the place telling the names of those who died.  When there was not a place to put one, ie if they died in hospital, there is a special memorial here.  



This is what Londonderry is today!  

 There were tenements along this road but they have been removed and the area is parkland.  The white mural was painted on the end of a row, and is all that stands there today.  Let us hope that anything like that never happens again. But I was quite interested to note that the freedom fighters took note of the words of Martin Luther King!

So after an interesting day, and another history lesson, we set off for Belfast.  Lucky we had Heidi in the car, cause we had no idea at all where we were.  Turns out we are close to the centre of town!

But before I go, have a guess what this pharmacy was famous for?

Bet you would never get it.............................it was the only place where you could buy contraceptives in the dark days of the 60's.  And it was on the east side at that!

So after that bit of trivia, I hope you have learnt a little about Londonderry and the fact that not only am I Scottish but Scottish/Irish as well.  My DNA would be quite a mix I am sure!

















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